February 28, 2009 | 4,000' Gain
with Bruce Frank, Jay Janousek, Bryan Stennes, John
Angulo,
Lynn Graf, Peter Heinz, Victor Chinn and Ryan
Mansfield
|
Trip
report courtesy of Bruce Frank:
Forest
Service road 58 was unplowed and blocked by a snow bank some distance
after I-90 Exit 47 adding an extra mile or two. We started hiking at
7:20am. There had been enough new snow in the past week that it was
difficult to follow the trail even with orange blazes on the trees. We
lost the trail and picked it up again a few times, using compass
bearings and Denny Creek as a handrail. We were on the trail at the
point where the trail crosses the first bridge over Denny Creek but we
were not able to find the second bridge, perhaps because we overshot it,
so we crossed the creek at a shallow area. Near Keekwulee Falls the snow
became deep enough that we put on snowshoes.
There was some concern over crossing the
open slopes higher up in the Denny Creek drainage. The avalanche
bulletin indicated a trend of decreasing danger on account of the period
of dry weather with moderate danger below 7,000 feet; however, we could
see debris from recent avalanches high up on the valley walls. The
avalanches may have originated from steep gullies on the rock faces. We
dug a pit and confirmed the weak layers described in the avalanche
bulletin. A shovel shear test produced uneven shear planes with a rough
texture. A compression test produced a collapsing of one weak layer at
C23 but the block did not fail and once collapsed the weak layer did not
make the adjacent layers more prone to sliding. We felt that we would
not be putting ourselves at undue risk by proceeding.
As we traveled further the softer layers
of snow at the surface made for tedious trail-breaking. Fortunately, we
had two seemingly tireless trail-breaking machines in the form of Jay
and John who did the bulk of the hard work. At a point roughly opposite
the Tooth, we veered away from the trail and followed a line in the
direction of the Bryant summit. We had to zig-zag to make our way up the
slope and eventually we found ourselves at the flat area below the
Bryant-Hemlock saddle.
On a previous climb of Bryant my party
had followed a route that had taken us to the summit but that I now
learned was needlessly circuitous. On that previous trip we had hiked up
to the saddle and then had tediously made our way along the steep snow
face just on the east side of the ridge.
On the trip today we looked up at the
moderate south face of the mountain and saw an obvious line to the
summit. Lynn had climbed the peak before in summer and reported that
this route was the one her party had taken. We followed the left edge of
the south face and then headed to the right beneath a rock buttress to
reach a final short steep step to the summit.
There was not much room on the summit. It
would have been better if we had staged people below the final step to
the summit and sent three or four people up at a time and then had them
come back down before sending the next group up. For the descent of the
summit ridge a few people switched to crampons because there was a
somewhat hard layer beneath the soft surface layer of snow. The weather
on the summit ridge was cold with occasional wind gusts.
As we were hiking out we passed a pair of
skiers who were heading up the Denny Creek trail but we did not see any
other parties. We were back at the cars by 4pm. A solid party and
reasonably good snow conditions made for a successful winter scramble. |